Jeremy Davis

Hello all,

I was just recently accepted into a graduate program and will be moving to a much smaller space in a new state for at least the next two years in a relatively short amount of time. Sadly, this means my "violin workshop" will have to be shuttered for quite a while.

Unfortunately, due to the way I work, I have at least 4 violins in my inbox without tops attached. Some of the plates are stable (repaired cracks), but others need much work in the way of cleating, etc... I simply don't have the time to repair them before moving. Nor do I really have the time to temporarily glue the tops back on for long-term storage.

I have cases for all the violins, so I had planned on simply putting everything back in the cases, sliding the tops back into position, and securing the tops top to the ribs/back with twine. Finally, packing around the violins so they don't shift around.

Things I'm concerned about:

*Will the ribs/tops deform?

*Will my packing & twine around the violins damage the varnish?

So my question is this: How do I store everything safely for 2+ years?

Hello all,

Back with another question about my new Juzek project ("1901" John Juzek master art copy of a Gagliano). With the exception of a 4" centerline crack (starting at the saddle), and two small wing cracks, it's in excellent shape. That being said, the two treble-side corners are damaged/missing (see pic) as is the side of the lower bought.

I've replaced all three before on other (more desparate) projects with good success. Those violins were in pretty bad shape, and I had no qualms about doing so. This violin is in much better condition though and the project gave me pause. While it's true the the missing corners are somewhat of an eyesore, I would like to know everyone's opinions about replacing them. They weren't broken recently, and have somewhat rounded-off and darkened over the years.

Do you summarily replace long-missing corners on your own personal restoration jobs? Either way, let me know why or why not.

Hello all,

I just bought a really nice John Juzek 1901 master copy of a Gagliano. Feelings aside for John Juzek instruments, it really is a nice instrument. It's mostly in excellent shape, but has a few wing cracks and a clean centerline crack extending about 4" from the saddle that needs repairing.

When I bought it, it was strung with older strings, but was playable. It had excellent tone on the E, A, and D, but the G was somewhat muffled. I figured it needed a better set of strings and a soundpost adjustment. Anyway, I decided if it sounded that good considering the setup, it was worth pulling the trigger on. Being wary of the open crack, I decided not to play around with the soundpost and/or new strings and rather get right to the repair.

Anyway, fast-forward to the top being off and getting a closer look at things. One thing that struck me upon opening was the bass bar. It is properly shaped (as seen from the profile) with measurments of 278mm long with a top height of 13mm.

What I'm wondering is if the consistent thickness of the bass bar is something I should remedy. It is a steady 5.5mm along its entire length, with parallel sides and a flat top (very slightly curved, actually). Most bass bars I'm familiar with are tapered towards the top and I'm wondering if all the extra wood is dampening the the bass side frequency and response. If something should be done about it, I would rather do it now while the top is off. (it's so hard to trip a bass bar through the f-holes.... )

The purist in me would say to leave it alone, but the musician in me says that if it could be made to sound better, do so. (It's not like I'm suggesting regraduating the top plate) Thoughts?

Hello all,

It's been a while since I've posted, life just gets too busy sometimes. Anyway, I just made a new aquisition recently (a very nice John Juzek, Master Art - 1901, owned by a violinist in the NY Philharmonic ca 1933-1939) I only mention that as this was the companion of a decent looking bow stamped Otto R. Pfretchner. (no other marks are visible on the stick)

I've searched high and low and can't find any information about this bowmaker. Naturally, the bow needs to be rehaired before I can play it, but it's a nice straight stick and the wood looks nice. I'm hoping that someone here can direct me to a resource that can help me out on this one. I'm not very well versed in Bowmakers and would like to know if I should persue a restoration of this bow. (needs a new frog, Ivory tip, hair, and grip)

The stick is very dirty and is in dire need of a cleaning. Not sure if the frog is original (although the slide seems to fit well. The tip is some sort of plastic, not fitted well. The grip wire is silver, but I don't think the other metal parts are)

Here are a few pictures, let me know if you need any more info. (weight, etc...)