9 replies to this topic

[Norton]

Hey forum colleagues— I’m brand spanking new to violins and violin construction and have several questions regarding purfling that I was hoping someone could answer.

* How deep should the purfling groove be on a violin? I’ve read somewhere that the depth should be about 1.5mm or 0.059”; does this sound right?

* What is the best glue for installing purfling?

* Are there any tricks to getting the purfling stuffed into its groove?

* What about clamps—are they necessary for gluing purfling and if so, which ones work the best?

Thank you for your help.

Jason

[Conor Russell]

Hi Norton,

Leave about 2mm of wood beneath the purfling, and make it an easy fit in the grove. Use your usual hot hide glue (I fill the groove with a syringe)and tap the purfing in lightly with a hammer. It shouldn't fit too tight dry, as the glue will swell the sides of the groove. You shouldn't need any clamps.

The best of luck,

Conor

[famuswood]

It helps if hide glue is somewhat thinner than usual for purfling. Use a syringe with a tiny tip that fits inside the groove for cleaner application. Avoid running glue bead too close to the corners and let the glue squeeze or run to the corners for less mess.

Happy fiddle making!

[Norton]

Hi Conor and famuswood,

Thank you for your responses to my purfling questions.

Once I get the purfling glued in place, I estimate that it will be standing proud of the belly by ~0.50". So, what is the best method to trim the purfling down level with the belly?

Also, I assume that if I get some hide glue on the wood surrounding the purfling groove, that I can clean it off sufficiently with a wet rag such that it will accept a stain with the same intensity as the surrounding "virgin" wood?

Best,

Jason

[Conor Russell]

Hi Jason,

After you put in the purfling you will hollow the edge all around the fiddle, cutting away the glue spots etc. as you do. You will blend this fluting in to the arching, and finally round over the edge.

I think that you should look for a night class in your area, or at least find someone who's on the same journey as you are. And a nice French trade fiddle can be a great teacher, copy one of those, and you're half way there.

All the best.

Conor

[Norton]

Thanks again Conor. If I find someone who's on the "same journey" as me, then I may not be any better off. My thinking was to ask for tips from folks, such as you, who have successfully completed the journey.

I have two books on the subject of violin making: Violin Making by Ossman and The Art of Violin Making by Johnson and Courtnall. These two books, especially the later, have been very helpful, but I like to get multiple opinions on certain aspects of violin construction.

I purchased a violin kit that has most of the major components completed and in the raw. Included in the kit is a maple back, spruce belly and an ebony finger board. Also included is a neck with pegbox and scroll that I have been finishing to the dimensions provided in The Art of Violin Making. I've rigged up a double-boiler for a glue pot. I shaped the bass bar to final size and contour and successfully glued it to the belly using hide glue and my glue pot; all is going smoothly so far. The purfling grooves in the belly have been pre-cut form me. My next step is to install the purfling, hence the questions surrounding this next step.

I'll post some pictures of the installed purfling once I get there.

Best,

Jason

[Norton]

A couple of pics of my first purfling job, I feel reasonably good about this first attempt. No doubt my next purfling project will have better results.





I'll post more pics after I clean up the excess purfling.

Best,

Jason

[Conor Russell]

Good show Jason!

[Christopher Jacoby]

Very good start, Jason. To finish those stingers off where they didn't get all the way up into the corners, squeeze some black shellac into them after you carve the purfling and channel down, or just draw it in with a sharp pencil and seal it with some varnish.

[Norton]

Thank you CRussell and Jacoby for the encouragement. And the tip about "drawing" the missing stinger was especially helpful!

Best,

Jason