• Announcements

    • ghunt

      Forum Update *UPDATED*   12/30/16

      If you are a Maestronet member, you will likely have noticed a major upgrade to our forum software. This new software improves on a number of areas - one of the biggest is mobile support. This new format is responsive, and so will work nicely on browsers of all sizes. Other improvements will be forthcoming shortly, including SSL for the entire site. A few notes that will help you with the new setup: Your username for logging in is now either your screen name, or your email address - either will work. Your old username will no longer work. When typing a message, the system will periodically auto-save your content as you type. If you lose connection, or return at another time, simply to back to the conversation or thread, hit the Reply button, and your saved content will be there ready for editing. There is a link at the top right of every page labelled "Unread Content" which will show you in a nice timeline view new content. The site can send notifications to your browser, but this can be turned off. Have a look around and check out some of the new features. If you notice anything off, post in News, or PM Jeff or Glenn and we will look into it. Happy New Year from the Maestronet Team.
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0
LauraV

Refined Linseed Oil Vs. Cold Pressed Linseed Oil

10 posts in this topic

In cleaning out our varnishing closet, I came across two bottles of linseed oil from Kremer Pigmente. One is their Linseed Oil, refined 73300, and the other is Linseed Oil, Cold-pressed 73020. I am wondering what, in a practical sense, the difference might be. The cold-pressed, apart from advertising that it is "from Sweden" is low acidity. What, if any, would be the advantage of that for violin-making? Does anyone have experience with these two products? Are there differences in drying times?

I might start some experiments....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Linseed oil from a northern climate like in Sweden is said to have a larger percent unsaturated bonds, so it will dry faster and probably better.

(Someone else here will know the chemistry better than me.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Linseed oil from a northern climate like in Sweden is said to have a larger percent unsaturated bonds, so it will dry faster and probably better.

(Someone else here will know the chemistry better than me.)

I do not think there is a significant difference. More to the point: How old is the material?What does it look like? Were the containers open? did you hear a little "pop" from either when you opened them?

Joe

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Refined linseed oil is done by the addition of alkalis, if I am not too wrong.

The cold pressed oil from Kremer has sometimes, a little mucilage on it, but I don;t find that a big problem, can easily be washed away.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Refined linseed oil is done by the addition of alkalis, if I am not too wrong.

The cold pressed oil from Kremer has sometimes, a little mucilage on it, but I don;t find that a big problem, can easily be washed away.

Mucilage is a natural product of flax seed, so, it would be there naturally, not added in, right?

Would it necessarily be something that would detract from the quality of a linseed oil varnish?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You might find this interesting, a rather definitive article on linseed oil quality and methods of refining it.

http://www.tadspurge...Linseed_Oil.pdf

Interestingly, the author indicates Kremer's Swedish Linseed oil is not organic and has a tendency to yellow with time.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You might find this interesting, a rather definitive article on linseed oil quality and methods of refining it.

http://www.tadspurge...Linseed_Oil.pdf

Interestingly, the author indicates Kremer's Swedish Linseed oil is not organic and has a tendency to yellow with time.

Excerpt;

"In the excellent but less well known “Medieval and Renaissance Treatises on

the Art of Painting”, Merrifield concurs with the usefulness of the procedure

outlined by Eastlake, and comments that it proceeds more quickly if the oil is

exposed to moderate heat, such as that of a low oven. This procedure, by a

combination of physical – the sand -- and mild chemical action – the salt being a base,

the water being polar – separates the oil from its water soluble fatty acids. The

predominant one of these in linseed oil is linolenic acid, Omega 3. This component has

also been proven to be a major potential cause of yellowing. Oil made by the procedure

below exhibits none of the negative characteristics associated with commercial linseed

oil. It does not skin or wrinkle, it dries hard without any gumminess, and, if used with

a chalk or other calcium carbonate, or aged in the light, it does not yellow perceptibly."

Interesting.

Thanks Bill, that was a great article.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

In cleaning out our varnishing closet, I came across two bottles of linseed oil from Kremer Pigmente. One is their Linseed Oil, refined 73300, and the other is Linseed Oil, Cold-pressed 73020. I am wondering what, in a practical sense, the difference might be. The cold-pressed, apart from advertising that it is "from Sweden" is low acidity. What, if any, would be the advantage of that for violin-making? Does anyone have experience with these two products? Are there differences in drying times?

I might start some experiments....

Hi,

On a practical level,a few drops "cold-pressed" linseed oil make the brush marks disappear.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This is very interesting! Of course, yellowing is not the huge issue for us that it is for painters. I, at least, have never looked at a violin and thought: "I bet this was a really nice color before the oil yellowed." Maybe my eye just isn't refined enough!

From the first part of the article: "Having significantly more linoleic acid, linseed oil has a tendency to dry faster, and also more of a tendency to yellow. " I got the idea that the acidity was related not only to the yellowing, but also the fast drying. But then later, in the section about the refining process, the addition of a base (either salt or calcium carbonate) is described as reducing the drying time "It dries in two days, more quickly in summer or when used with chalk."

Certainly, all this talk of calcium carbonate brings to mind certain mineral and pozzolana grounds that have been variously discussed....

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  
Followers 0

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    No registered users viewing this page.