Spiral Bushings for new setup for violin #2
Posted 27 January 2008 - 11:35 AM
What about just sizing the new pegholes with thin hide glue prior to the final fitting of the pegs?
What diameter bore hole should one aim for? I could not find this dimension listed as one of the standard measurements.
I have measured some new violins and have found the peg bore to vary between 7.4 mm to 7.9 mm.
Posted 27 January 2008 - 01:43 PM
I cannot understand why you would want, a priori, to design-in spiral bushings. Good peg fitting technique will pay rewards later. Practice on offcuts till you get it right, before tackling the pegbox and pegs themselves.
I would not size the peg holes with glue - humidity and heat changes might soften this and gum up the pegs. [There are MN threads on ingenious methods to tackle stuck pegs.]
I use the smallest peg shaft bore I can get away with (I will alter the peg-head to keep shaft in proportion with the head). This improves the ability to tune accurately. Remember that the greater the diameter of the peg, the more the string will wind round for a small amount of peg-head movement.
In search of Alpha.
Posted 27 January 2008 - 01:47 PM
Posted 27 January 2008 - 02:13 PM
Here's how my peg hole sizes are determined: First I shave the pegs until they are all the way in the largest hole on the Dick 4-hole peg shaver for small violins. Then I ream the holes until the pegs stick out the distance I want (about 40mm from the outside of the pegbox to the extremity of the peg knob for a full-size violin).
This means that I'm starting out with my new holes a bit on the small side -- about what would probably be normal for a 3/4 size violin. I want it to be a long time before the holes wear big enough to require bushing.
I have never measured the hole diameter; it would vary depending on how far the pegs stuck out. I'll try to remember to measure one and edit this message with the result.
Edit: The diameter of my new peg hole is 6.9mm measured at the outside of the pegbox on the larger hole.
Time flies like an arrow. Fruit flies like a banana.
Posted 27 January 2008 - 02:42 PM
And I can see titebond or white glue for the bushings would be preferred over hide glue because of the possibility stuck pegs in areas of high humidity.
Posted 27 January 2008 - 09:18 PM
Originally posted by: catnipI have noticed that on violin #1 the pegs have move in about 2mm from the original setup.
A common problem. The Chinese just fit the pegs a little shy of going all the way through, but I believe Michael Darnton recommended burnishing the peg holes by turning the reamer backwards a few turns after getting the size you want. This seems to minimize movement of the pegs into the holes when I can remember to do it. Also don't leave the pegs too rough or they quickly wear in.
Posted 28 January 2008 - 02:01 AM
MD doesn't advocate using the reamer for burnishing. Use a peg or something purpose-made, and spare the reamer.
Posted 28 January 2008 - 06:08 AM
As long as customers don't use an abrasive on the pegs (chalk, pumice, "lava soap" etc.), they typically move in very little after years of use.
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